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Guide · Jobsite supplies · Wasp and hornet spray, nests under eaves and the label rules

What is in wasp and hornet spray, how far does it reach, and when do you use it? What the label states, the 20 foot stream, why a spray may not reach a nest, when wasps are in the nest, flammability and cleanup, and nests under the eave

A wasp and hornet spray is a pressurized aerosol that shoots a narrow stream of insecticide 15 to 20 feet so the user can hit a nest from a distance; the one we stock is a 14 oz petroleum-based can whose data lists a stream up to 20 feet and that it kills wasps and hornets, sold by the box of 12. The active ingredients on wasp sprays are pyrethroids (the label names them), carried in a petroleum solvent, which is why the can is flammable and why the label says to keep it away from flame and electrical outlets. UC IPM’s Pest Notes on social wasps say wasps are most likely to be in the nest at night, that even after dark and with a 20 foot stream stinging incidents are likely, that an underground nest may be far from its visible entrance, and that the applicator should cover the whole body, face and hands. Under FIFRA it is unlawful to use a pesticide in a way inconsistent with its label, so the label on the can is the instruction, and this page is not.

Bayshore Safety. Industrial safety, roofing tools and jobsite supplies since 2017. · Current as of November 2026 · the C&R product data on this site (14 oz petroleum-based wasp spray, listed as killing wasps and hornets with a stream up to 20 feet, sold by the box of 12); UC IPM Pest Notes 7450, Yellowjackets and Other Social Wasps (University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources, fetched Nov 10 2026): wasps most likely in the nest at night, 20-foot stream products, protective clothing, underground nests, paper wasp vs yellowjacket vs mud dauber; FIFRA 7 U.S.C. 136j(a)(2)(G), which makes it unlawful to use a registered pesticide in a manner inconsistent with its labeling
C&R Wasp Spray, 14 ozC&R Wasp Spray, 14 ozThe product data lists the C&R wasp spray as a 14 oz petroleum-based can that sprays up to 20 ft and kills wasps and hornets, sold by the box of 12

Why a roofing supplier sells wasp spray. Roofers find nests under eaves, in soffits, behind fascia, in gutters and in the ground at the base of the ladder, in the months when the colony is biggest and most defensive. The can rides in the truck for that. The questions people ask about it are mostly not about the can — what wasps hate, what time of day they are active, whether they chase you, whether the spray is flammable or toxic, why it did not work, what to do without it, how to get rid of a nest for good — and the honest sources for those are the university pest notes and the product label, which are what the cards below quote. Where a question is a pest-control or a medical question, the answer here is to call the people who do that work.

Wasp spray and nests, question by question

Statements about wasp behavior are from UC IPM Pest Notes 7450; statements about the can are from the product data and the label rule in FIFRA.

What is in wasp and hornet spray, and how does it work?The label on a wasp and hornet aerosol lists its active ingredients, which on the common products are pyrethroids (synthetic versions of the chrysanthemum insecticide pyrethrin) in a petroleum solvent carrier, propelled so the can throws a coherent stream 15 to 20 feet. The pyrethroid acts on the insect’s nervous system within seconds to minutes; the stream lets the user stand back. Our product data describes the can we stock as 14 oz, petroleum based, with a stream up to 20 feet, killing wasps and hornets. Foaming versions expand into a cavity; freeze versions add a cold propellant that stuns on contact. Read the label on the can for its ingredients, its signal word and its instructions; under FIFRA (7 U.S.C. 136j) using the product in any way the label does not allow is unlawful.
What time of day are wasps most active, and is midnight a good time to spray a nest?UC IPM states that wasps are most likely to be in the nest at night, and that is the reasoning behind spraying at dusk or after dark: the foragers are home, the colony is cold and slow, and the spray reaches more of it. UC IPM also states that even after dark, with products that shoot 20 feet, stinging incidents are likely. So late evening or early morning, with a light held away from the body (wasps fly at the light), protective clothing on, and an exit planned; midnight is not better than dusk, just darker. Daytime foraging peaks in the warm hours and the nest is emptiest then, which is the wrong time to treat it and the right time to notice where they fly in and out.
Why is wasp spray not killing the wasps, and do the sprays work?UC IPM states that aerosols labeled for wasp and hornet nests can be effective against yellowjackets and paper wasps, with the cautions above. The usual reasons a treatment fails: the nest is underground or in a wall and the visible hole is a long way from the nest, so the stream never reaches it (UC IPM makes this point about ground nests); the stream hit the outside of a paper envelope and not the entrance; the colony is large (UC IPM gives 1,500 to 15,000 for yellowjackets) and one can is not enough; the wasps seen the next day are the agitated survivors UC IPM says to expect at a distance from the nest; or the insects were not wasps (honey bees, which the spray should never be used on, or mud daubers, which do not need treating). A nest in a wall void is a pest-control job, not a spray job.
Will wasps chase you if you spray their nest, and what do wasps absolutely hate?UC IPM states that wasps attack if they sense a poison being applied to their nests and that even freeze-type products do not stop all the wasps that come flying out, which is why it advises covering the entire body with protective clothing, a veil over the face, gloves and eye protection, and leaving the area quickly if stinging starts. On what wasps hate: the Pest Notes do not list repellents; they list what wasps are drawn to (protein in spring and summer, sugar and garbage in late summer and fall) and say to remove those. Claims about dryer sheets, essential oils, dish soap and other home remedies are not in the university guidance and are not made here; a soapy-water trap over protein bait is the homemade trap UC IPM does describe.
Is wasp spray flammable, how toxic is it, and how do you clean it up?The can is a petroleum-based aerosol, so yes, flammable: the label carries the flammability statement and the standard instructions not to spray near open flame, pilot lights, sparks or electrical outlets and switches (a stream into a soffit light or an outlet box is a known fire cause), and not to puncture or heat the can. Toxicity to people is stated on the label by its signal word and first-aid statements; the pyrethroids are low in acute toxicity to mammals at the label doses and the solvent is the eye and skin irritant, and the labels say to wash skin, avoid breathing the spray, keep it off food surfaces and keep children and pets away until it dries. Cleanup: the petroleum carrier leaves an oily film on siding, soffit and glass that comes off with a detergent wash; on a roof, spray only what the label allows and not onto a surface about to be coated or sealed. The question of whether the spray kills bees: it does, which is why it is never used on honey bees; a bee swarm or hive is a beekeeper’s or a vector district’s call.
How do roofers deal with a nest under the eave, and what is the alternative to spraying?First identify it: UC IPM describes paper wasps (open umbrella nests under eaves, 15 to 200 wasps, rarely aggressive unless the nest is in a traffic area), yellowjackets (enclosed gray paper nests with one entrance, or ground and wall-void nests, defensive and large) and mud daubers (hard mud nests, solitary, rarely sting; remove in winter without spraying). A small paper-wasp nest early in the season can be knocked down, which UC IPM says sends the founding female elsewhere; a nest in the way of the work in midsummer is sprayed from the ground at dusk per the label with the crew off the roof, or, for a large yellowjacket nest or any nest in a wall, is left to a licensed pest control operator or the local mosquito and vector control district, which UC IPM says may remove nests in some parts of California. On the roof the crew wears long sleeves anyway; a wasp veil and gloves are the addition. Anyone with a known sting allergy carries their own epinephrine and tells the crew.
How to permanently get rid of wasp nests, and what do professionals use?UC IPM states that yellowjacket and paper wasp colonies normally live one season and that a new queen starts a new nest each spring, so a nest sprayed or removed does not come back, but a new one may start nearby; early-season removal of started nests, sealing the soffit and wall gaps they used, and removing food sources are the prevention it describes. Professionals use the same aerosol class plus dusts applied into wall voids and ground nests with a bulb duster, and lure traps around a property’s perimeter for foraging yellowjackets; the Pest Notes describe the traps. We sell the can and the pole; we do not do pest control.
What is the foaming spray for, and how much does wasp spray cost?Foam expands into a cavity or a ground hole so the insecticide reaches further into a void than a liquid stream; a stream is for an exposed aerial nest or a nest entrance 15 to 20 feet up. The can we stock is a stream product sold by the box of 12 because that is how crews and property managers buy it; the band below has the current price per box.
How does the extension pole fit in?The DocaPole 6 to 24 foot pole with the hook attachment knocks down a small, early paper-wasp nest or an old empty nest from the ground, and holds a camera to look under an eave before anyone climbs. It is not a sprayer; the can is used by hand from the distance the label gives.

Wasp spray in plain words

  • A 20 foot stream of pyrethroid insecticide in a petroleum carrier; the label on the can is the law under FIFRA.
  • Wasps are in the nest at night; treat at dusk or after dark, in full protective clothing, with an exit planned, and expect some to come out.
  • A ground or wall nest can be far from its hole; the stream may never reach it. That is a pest-control job.
  • Flammable: never near flame, pilot lights, outlets or light fixtures.
  • Paper wasps under eaves are rarely aggressive; yellowjackets are; mud daubers do not need treating.
  • Colonies live one season; a new queen starts a new nest each spring. Seal the gaps and remove the food.
  • Never on honey bees; call a beekeeper or the vector district.
  • We sell the can and the pole; licensed pest control does the nests in walls and the ground.

Questions people ask

What do wasps absolutely hate?

The university pest notes do not list repellents; they say to remove what wasps are drawn to (protein, sugar, garbage, fruit) and describe traps. Home remedies are not in that guidance.

What is a good wasp repellent for houses?

Prevention per UC IPM: covered food and garbage, early removal of started nests, sealed soffit and wall gaps, and perimeter lure traps for yellowjackets; no spray repels them.

What time of day are wasps most active?

Foraging peaks in warm daylight; UC IPM says wasps are most likely to be in the nest at night, which is when a nest is treated.

Will wasps chase you if you spray their nest?

UC IPM says wasps attack when they sense poison at the nest and some come out even with freeze sprays; cover up and plan the exit.

Is midnight a good time to spray a wasp nest?

After dark is the time the pest notes name; midnight is no better than dusk, only darker.

Why is wasp spray not killing wasps?

The nest is usually not where the hole is (ground and wall nests), the stream missed the entrance, the colony is large, or the survivors are the agitated wasps UC IPM says to expect the next day.

What is a good alternative to wasp spray?

Knocking down a small early paper-wasp nest, lure or soapy-water traps for yellowjackets, and a licensed pest control operator or the vector district for nests in walls and the ground.

How to permanently get rid of wasp nests?

Colonies live one season; remove the nest, seal the gaps they used and remove food sources so a new queen does not start there next spring.

How much is wasp spray?

By the box of 12 for the 14 oz can we stock; the band on this page has the current price.

Is wasp spray flammable?

Yes; the petroleum-based aerosol carries a flammability warning and must not be sprayed near flame, pilot lights, outlets or fixtures.

How to clean up wasp spray?

Wash the oily film off siding, soffit and glass with detergent and water; keep it off surfaces about to be coated or sealed.

How to remove wasps without spray?

Early knockdown of started paper-wasp nests, traps for foragers, and professional removal for large or hidden nests.

What do professional exterminators use to kill wasps?

Labeled aerosols and insecticidal dusts applied into voids and ground nests with a duster, plus perimeter traps; the active ingredients are on their labels.

Is foaming wasp spray the better choice?

Foam reaches into cavities and ground holes; a stream is for exposed nests and entrances up to 20 feet away. Each has its use.

Do wasp sprays work?

UC IPM states that aerosols labeled for wasp and hornet nests can be effective against yellowjackets and paper wasps, with extreme caution and full protective clothing.

How toxic is wasp spray?

The label states it by its signal word and first-aid section; pyrethroids are low in acute toxicity to people at label doses and the solvent irritates eyes and skin.

Can wasp killer spray kill bees?

Yes, which is why it is never used on honey bees; call a beekeeper or the vector control district for a hive or swarm.

What month is worst for wasps?

Late summer and fall, when UC IPM says colonies are largest, food is scarcer and yellowjackets scavenge most.

The ratings, test results and standards shown here are the manufacturers' published values, reproduced as published. Nothing on this page is a recommendation by Bayshore Safety that any product is suitable for a particular task, hazard or workplace. Selecting safety products and protective equipment is the responsibility of the end user and the employer, based on their own hazard assessment and the regulations that apply to their work. Confirm every value on the manufacturer's own documentation before use.

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